My favorite way to establish a guideline is to use a 2-ft.-long piece that’s coped accurately and a 2-ft.-long square-cut piece.
Crown trick secrets install#
Once the miters are cut, I install the piece, using the gauge to hold it at the proper projections. I measure the angle of the corner, subtract that angle from 180°, and divide by two to get the miter angle. It’s especially handy for laying out and installing outside corners. Fitted in the corner, the coped piece locates the square piece at the correct projections, and you can mark the top and/or bottomĪn alternative technique comes from my colleague Dave Collins ( who cuts the wall and ceiling projections of a crown profile into a piece of plywood that holds the crown in the proper position. With the gauge held up to the ceiling, I can mark the crown’s top and bottom positions. Instead, I use the piece I ripped to set the miter stop, glue a slice of the crown into position, and lop off the corner. Sprung crown doesn’t make contact with the intersection of ceiling and wall, so measuring from the corner to mark guidelines only introduces errors that result from framing irregularities or joint-compound buildup. Use gauges and take the guesswork out of the installation Installed at that projection, the cope will fit. To check the cut, I measure the length of the miter it should equal that profile’s ceiling projection. I use the plywood to set the position of a stop and screw the stop to the auxiliary table. Rather than use a compound-miter saw to cut crown on the flat, I’ve found that it’s faster to add a stop to the saw-table that reproduces the ceiling projection, then cut the molding upside down and backward.Īfter measuring the projection, I rip a piece of plywood to the width of that measurement (in this case, 3 1/8 in.).
To find the ceiling projection of the crown, I fit a square onto the bedding angles of a flat sample piece the ceiling projection is indicated on the top scale, in this case 3 1/8 in. If the crown is cut at the same angle as the projection, the cope will fit every time. Transfer the ceiling projection to the sawĮvery crown profile has a specific wall and ceiling projection (see the photo below). Cut precisely, a coped joint is forgiving and fits every time. This will always remove the complications brought on by irregular corners, bad framing, and lumpy tape jobs. Once you have determined the projection, you need to reproduce the measurement accurately and consistently in your miter cuts and in the installation of the coped joint. The most-important concept to keep in mind is that every crown profile is designed for a fixed wall and ceiling projection. Created out of need, the techniques are based partly on math, partly on common sense, and partly on learning from mistakes. After working with trim for a long time and talking to a great many carpenters, I have developed a handful of crown-coping techniques that I’d like to pass along. It involves a set of skills and techniques passed from master to apprentice, or less formally, from one guy on the job to another.
Coping crown molding is as much an art as it is a science.
0 kommentar(er)
